Whether you take a long overland journey or fly into the nearby town of Denizli, there's really no way to make up for the fact that Pamukkale is off the beaten track, and relatively inconvenient to get to. So in answer to the recurring question; "should we go?" I say – it's only worth a visit if you plan to spend the night, as a day trip will undoubtedly be exhausting and disillusioning.
Since almost all itineraries include a drive-by visit to this mountainous calcium deposit, expectations run high, and are all to frequently shattered in disappointment. So whether you stay an hour or two days, I've learned that expectation is a dangerous thing, and the less you expect, the more your rewards.
Pamukkale in Turkish translates to "cotton castle," an apt description of the sweeping terraces of blinding white formed by thousands of years of mineral rich spring water coursing down the mountain. The good news is that UNESCO has moved in, razed almost all of the on-site thermal hotels that drained the terraces of their liquid nourishment, and created a system of irrigation that has already made miraculous strides in restoring the natural beauty of the site. The bad news is that the Earth is an ever-changing phenomenon, and the seismic nature of the territory has opened up new outlets diverting the precious water elsewhere.
While the Pamukkale Thermal no longer accepts overnight guests, the establishment continues to enjoy notoriety thanks to the presence of the Sacred Pool, an eminently swimable bubbling thermal spring revered by the ancients and strewn with sunken bits of architectural detritus. You'll get the most out of a detour to Pamukkale by booking a room in one of the plentiful hotels with a built in thermal pool, or better yet, by staying at one of the nearby thermal spa hotels. Do absolutely explore the underrated ruins of Hieropolis, the ancient city erected on and around the restorative springs.
Admission to the archaeological site of Hieropolis (3.5 YTL/$2.50) also admit you to the upper plateau of the travertines. The Sacred Pool (admission 5 euros/$6) is also located up here.
Where to Stay
Richmond Thermal.
(http://www.richmondhotels.com.tr/eng/pamukkalethermal.asp)
With the choice of a plethora of pensions (including a smelly "boutique property") at the base of the travertines, I've settled on this reliable, albeit oversized, all service and group-heavy hotel up in the village of Karahayit. It's actually two hotels: the Richmond Thermal and the Richond Spa, easily bearing all the bells and whistles of stress-release stay.
Where I Eat
Frankly, I usually stay in the hotel. But there are a couple of family-run lokantas in Karahayit and in Pamukkale.
Don't Leave Town Without
A Dip in the Sacred Pool. If you've followed my advice, you've spent the night in town, so an early morning swim isn't out of the question.
Purchasing a set of plush cotton towels. "Pamukkale" means cotton castle, after all. (Production centers are clearly marked on the roads; otherwise ask your concierge but be aware that the recommendation will cost you – in the form of slightly higher prices.
A (self-) tour of the ancient site of Hieropolis. The necropolis is truly a sight to be seen, and the Christian basilica is in a pretty good state of repair.
A day trip to Aphrodisias. Some say that these ruins are better than the ones you'll see at Ephesus. A good portion of the site is still standing, and the stadium, the Agora (or Olympic sized pool) and the Tetrapylon are spectacular.
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