The Mehter Band and the Military Museum. When the Ottoman army marched off to battle, the imposing Mehter Band marched at the fore, stirring the fervor of the soldiers while terrorizing the enemy with pounding percussion, pipes and woodwinds. In peacetime, the music represented the majesty and power of the Sultanate. The Mehter Band has been reconstituted and recreated, in full regalia, with daily, half hour performances in the auditorium of the Military Museum. The English-language show begins at 3pm, repeating at 3:30 with Turkish. Allow some extra time for the museum itself, as the history of the Ottoman Empire (and of Turkey) is inextricably bound to its military prowess.

Komutanli Open Wednesday through Sunday 9 to 5pm.. Harbiye (walk about .75km/[bf]1/2 mile north of Taksim along Cumhuriyet Caddesi; the museum will be on your right). Tel 0212/233-2720. Admission $2.