Turkey's second largest port is also probably one of the best cities in the country to live and work, quality of life speaking. Izmir boasts an expansive waterfront park, wide open plazas, a bustling central market, and a brand-new entertainment pier. If it's modern amenities and a nearby transport hub (air, bus, train) you need, Izmir is it. For those hoping for a good place to hang a hat while day-tripping it to the surrounding attractions such as Çesme, Kusadasi, Selçuk and Ephesus, this may not be the best option. Getting in and out of town by road, including to/from the airport, will add anywhere from 1/2 hour to an hour onto any excursion. But because Izmir is so central (and because any excursion to Çesme or even to Bergama will require you to backtrack here), I wouldn't discount it so quickly. Ideally, you'll want the independence and convenience of a car when tackling this region (but not in the city!), particularly for the freedom to explore the Çesme Peninsula and combine visits to Miletus, Priene and Didyma. (I did these latter three sites in a very exhausting day that began in Kusadasi and ended in Bodrum).
Allow at least a week for this area. I personally suggest bases in Çesme and Selçuk, but this will make a trip to Bergama a bit more logistically challenging. I usually spend two nights in Izmir, two in Çesme, and two in Selçuk before heading down the coast.
OK, so what's the point of any of these places?
The Çesme Peninsula is famous for its natural thermal springs as well as for its lovely sandy beaches. Sometimes the two even combine. Alaçati Bay provides some of the country's most ideal conditions for windsurfing, while little fishing villages often sit beside ancient excavated ruins.
Bergama has long languished in the shadow of its more illustrious neighbor, Ephesus, but only three hours away, Bergama hosts not only one of the most important sites of ancient and Roman civilizations with the Acropolis of Pergamum and the Asklepion, it also boasts one of the Seven Churches of the Revelation (the Red Basilica, which began its service as a temple to the Egyptian god, Serapis). This is mostly a result of an absence of adequate overnight accommodations for groups, as well as the fact that a trip here usually requires a significant detour (unless you've driven down from the Gallipoli Peninsula). I find Bergama simply charming.
Most people head to Selçuk purely out of necessity. As the modern-day host of ancient Ephesus – the holy grail of archaeological sites in Turkey - , this little town sees its share of visitors. I confess that while Selçuk remains near to my heart, I prefer the quieter, more characteristic home base of Sirince, a pretty former Armenian wine-growing village up a few kilometers into the mountains above Selçuk.
Where I Stay
In Izmir
There's always the Hilton. I've done farely well at the charmless yet centrally located Kaya Prestige. The next time I head to Izmir though, I'm going directly to the brand new Blue Butik Hotel (www.bluebutikizmir.com), a welcome newcomer to a city with few really good hotels. The hotel is located in the Basmane district, and is fresh, modern and minimalist.
Antik Han
(www.otelantikhan.com)
Another alternative is the Antik Han, a 1930-ish double-wide row house right in the heart of Izmir's bustling shopping quarter. Rooms are pretty basic, but the intimate indoor setting and shady courtyard provide plenty of character. Windows are double glazed, for those who care to know. (NB: This is not a car friendly location).
In Bergama
Hotel Anil and Hotel Efsane
(Tel. 0232/632-6353. Fax. 0232/631-1830).
The Anil was new in 2000, and the Efsane followed shortly after. Frankly, I've always found it almost impossible to get a response from these hotels. The latter has a rooftop swimming pool.
On the Çesme Peninsula
The relatively new Sisus Hotel (www.lux-hotels.com/turkey/sisus), takes advantage of one of the areas loveliest little marinas. It's design-conscious and offers all of the amenities a yuppie (guilty) could want.
If you're looking for a full-service hotel spa experience, try the Sheraton Çesme (www.sheraton.com) which has its own beach, the local little Piril Hotel (www.pirilhotel.com), which doesn't, but is in walking distance to the restaurants and nightlife of Çesme town, or the Süzer Paradise (reservation@suzerparadise.com), which sits on a picturesque and remote stretch of beach along Alaçati Bay.
There are a couple of noteworthy restored Greek houses converted into bed and breakfasts in the pretty little inland village of Alaçati (not to be confused with the bay, which is a few kilometers away). Alaçati village attracts mostly city weekenders intent upon antiqhing, relaxing behind blue shuttered doorways or sipping cappuccino at one of the several outdoor cafes. Try the Alaçati Tas Hotel (www.tasotel.com), Sakizli Han (www.sakizlihan.com), the Adaçati (www.adacati.com), or the Alacatidegirmen (www.alacatidegirmen.com).
STAY TUNED FOR MORE AWESOME PLACES TO STAY IN CESME
In/Near Selçuk
There's really only one noteworthy hotel in Selçuk town, and that's the Kale Han. (www.kalehan.com). But whenever I can (and whenever I don't have my aging mum in tow), I head up to the Nisanyan Houses in the mountain village of Sirince (www.nisanyan.com). Houses are self-catering, but there's also a small inn with lovely rooms.
Where I Eat
In Izmir
Because dining out in Turkey is usually such a special occasion, locals like to splurge on fresh fish. That's certainly what you'll do at Deniz (www.denizrestaurant.com), and pretty much what everyone else in Izmir is doing too. Tables are generally packed at the outdoor café of this popular restaurant. Don't just take my word for it; ask anyone in town. (Located opposite the Izmir Park at 1 Kordon).
Across the street from Deniz is the Izmir Chamber of Commerce (Izmir Ticaret Odasi), which has it's own quality restaurant hidden on the second floor of the building above bar/café Sera (entrance around the corner at Atatürk Cadessi 126). Traditional Turkish delights are served high above the fray, with outstanding views of the Gulf.
In Sirince
If the name "Artemis Wine House and Restaurant" wasn't appealing enough, the entire operation takes place in a converted schoolhouse. The menu features the freshest local fare and good local wines. In season, you can enjoy the sprawling terrace overlooking the valley.
In Dalyan (Çesme Peninsula)
If one place stands out, it's Dalyan's Restaurant "Cevat'un Yeri", the first (but not the last) high quality fish restaurant located on the Dalyan marina waterfront. As expected, fish is sold by weight and available according to that day's catch. What I didn't expect was the array of finger-licking creative appetizers.
Don't Leave Town Without
Don't leave Izmir without
A drink at the panoramic restaurant atop Asansör
A Turkish coffee at one of the shops in the old Bedesten, where it is said that the best coffee in the country is served.
A tour of the Izmir Archaeology Museum
Shopping along the bustling streets of Karsiyaka (take the ferry from Izmir across the bay)
A stroll down the waterfront Kordon; a stroll up the narrow commercial bazaar of Anafartalar Caddesi
Don't Leave Bergama Without
A tour of the Red Church, Ancient Pergamon and the Asklepion
A visit to the Bergama Archaeological Museum
A meal of fresh trout along the road just out of town
Don't Leave Selcuk Without
Dining at Artemis Wine House and Restaurant in Sirince
A half day in the Ephesus Museum in Selçuk
A stroll to the Artemesian
Spending a half a day in Ephesus and at Mary's House
A visit to St. John's Basilica and the adjacent Isa Bey mosque.
Don't Leave Çesme Without
An overnight stay, complete with thermal treatment, and visits to the ancient site of Erythrai in modern-day Ildiri village
A walk through Alaçati town
Laying out your beach towel on Pirlanta Beach and Altinkum Beach
Taking your first windsurfing lesson on Alaçati Bay
Don't Leave Kusadasi Without
A picnic in Dilek Peninsula National Park
Lunch at the organic restaurant and natural center of Degirmen, followed by a horse-back ride. The kids will love feeding the ducks and swans.
A full day's scholarly trip to the ancient trio of Miletus, Priene and Didyma. Bring lots of water.
|
