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Defining Cultural Experience

The Whirling Dervishes

For anyone interested in spirituality, mysticism and sacred rituals, the Sufi rite of the sema, more colloquially known as the Whirling Dervishes, will be a certain inspiration. The sema is a spiritual dance performed by the Sufi sect of Islam established by Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi in the 13th century. For the Sufi mystic, the act of revolving brings one closer to God.

This spiritual ballet can be seen in all its authenticity at a number of ³venues² around Turkey. Although these events are billed as performances, the presence of an audience does not diminish the sacred rite itself. A dervish will go into meditational prayer whether or not someone is watching.

While the ritual itself is colorful, entrancing and visually remarkable, I would be remiss if I didn't tell you that the spectacle can go on well into an hour. Just a heads up.

The most celebrated of these events takes place in the home of Mevlana, in Konya. Capital of the Selçuk Empire for only a scarce hundred or so years, Konya, when not described as largely resembling Detroit, exhibits one of the country's richest architectural collection of mosques, baths, caravanseries and medreses (seminaries). During the Festival of the Mevlana in December, hundreds of thousands descend to witness the spectacle. For information and tickets, contact the Tourism Office of Konya 90-332/351-1074 or a specialized travel agent.

A satisfying alternative to the annual Konya event is the bi-monthly sema rite performed by the Mevlevi brotherhood at the Galata Mevlevihanesi monastery in Istanbul. The ritual takes place in the 15th century tekke every first and last Saturday of the month to the moving melodies of Sufi composers. Due to limited seating, it's best to buy your ticket the day before (admission 25YTL). For information log onto www.emav.org.

The Mevlana brotherhood in Cappadocia recreates the sema in the evocative restored Sarihan caravansary, located about three miles outside Avanos. Reservations are required ask your hotel host or agent to do this for you) for the nightly show beginning at 9pm April to October. Admission is US$25.