A scenic and historic boat trip up the Bosphorus, criss-crossing between Europe and Asia, is usually on everyone's list of things to do in Istanbul. But then people realize that the trip can take up an entire, precious day. As a result, one of Istanbul's most satisfying and archetypal experiences inevitably falls by the wayside. It doesn't have to be this way.

First, although a one-way trip on the Istanbul Fast Ferries public service takes two hours, passengers wishing to return to the point of embarkation must wait three hours for the return ferry for a total excursion time of six hours. (In summer, the last ferry out of Eminönü leaving at 1:35 arrives at 3:05, requiring just under a two hour wait for a total of five hours). With the time hurdle to navigate, it's possible to hop off at the halfway point (or one of the earlier docks on the European side) and catch a taxi or minibus back to the center of town. Total time: approximately 2 hours.
Fares and timetables are available at www.ido.com.tr.

Another option is one of the Turyol boats, which makes a direct shot between Eminönü and Rumeli Hisari. Total time 3 hours (1.5 hours each way).
For fares and timetables see www.turyol.com.tr.

Istanbul Fast Ferries is also offering a Saturday evening serenaded moonlight cruises on the Bosphorus. The palaces and monuments are lit up in all their splendor; together with the event itself, you'll be hard-pressed to recreate the romance of this trip. Moonlight cruises depart from Kadiköy at 6:50pm and from Eminönü at 7:15.

Leaving Eminönü, keep your eyes out for the Maiden's Tower (Kiz Kulesi) rising above the waters, and of the enormous, wall-enclosed Topkapi Palace grounds. North of Besiktas will expose a regal lineup of Ottoman Palaces, including Dolmabahçe, Yildiz and the Çiragan Hotel and Palace. You'll pass the trendy fishing village of Örtaköy as you head for the Bosphorus Bridge, crowned by the ornamented Mecediye Mosque right on the waterfront.

Beylerbeyi Palace sits on the Asian shores, followed by the sleepy village of Çengelköy. The Turkish Naval Academy sprouts a series of towers, and it was in the hospital here that during the Crimean War, Florence Nightingale aided the sick and wounded.

The northern reaches of the Bosphorus are also home to Istanbul's famous yalis ­ shuttered wooden mansions that served as summer getaways for the Ottoman elite.

At Sariyer, you'll find a seaside fishing port popular for its fish market and waterside dining. Many passengers disembark here, have lunch, and catch the returning ferry on its way back to Eminönü.

The citadel at Rumeli Kavagi (called Rumeli Hisari) complements the Anadolu Hisari citadel on the opposite shore, together presenting a formidable defense against enemies hoping to conquer Istanbul from the north. Anadolu Hisari was built by Sultan Beyazit in 1390; Mehmet the Conqueror erected its complement in advance of his assault on Constantinople in 1453.