That modern-day Bodrum contains one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World is besides the point in this polished and pretty popular seaside resort town. Probably Turkey's most magnetic play-ground, Bodrum has just about reached its capacity for bars, discos and diving boats, but that doesn't seem to stop the masses from arriving. Built on (and in some cases, out of ) the stones of ancient Halicarnassus, Bodrum sits on the hillside stretched around twin bays, completely dominated by the overpowering and extraordinary presence of St. Peter's Castle, which was reconstructed using plundered stones from the imposing Mausoleum. The castle dominates Bodrum from every angle, attracting visitors to a rich collection of ancient artifacts in its Underwater Archaeology Museum, and views of the Aegean from one of its many towers. It's actually possible to avoid the mania of nighttime revelry by choosing one of the many hotels burgeoning with bougainvillea as far away as possible from the laser light show at Halikarnass Disco, but if nightlife isn't your cup of tea, you might just do better in selecting a quieter spot away from the fray.
My first visit, in 1999, witnessed what was probably the beginning of the end of Bodrum as the quintessential playground of Turkey's rich and famous. Because the inevitable tide of high-end travelers followed, forcing the intrepid celebrity set on to other unchartered territory. Don't get me wrong: the bays of the peninsula (Torba, Göltürkbükü, Yalikavak, Turgut Reis, Gümüslük, Ortakent, et al) still offer eminently exclusive settings and luxury accommodations. You may even stumble upon an heiress or two. I said the beginning of the end, not the end.
Meanwhile back at the town center, Bodrum simply continues to pack 'em in, a trend which has caused a spillover effect to the neighboring bay of Gümbet, which accommodates predominantly low-end package tourists flying in on cheap charter flights. Sigh.
In my travels, I still make sure to stop in Bodrum, because in spite of the increased density, both good and bad, it's still possible to make the most of a region that has a ways to go yet before it comes close to being spoiled. Hurry.
Where I Stay
Marmara Bodrum. See the Frommer's review (www.frommers.com/destinations/bodrum/H44795.html)
Butterfly Hotel. Intimate, stylish, cozy, relaxing. See the Frommer's review (http://www.thebutterflybodrum.com)
Ada Hotel. See the Frommer's review
(www.frommers.com/destinations/bodrum/H44797.html)
Queen Ada Hotel. See the Frommer's review
(www.frommers.com/destinations/bodrum/H44796.html)
Antique Theatre. See the Frommer's review
www.frommers.com/destinations/bodrum/H44731.html
Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay (www.kempinski-bodrum.com/en/home/index.htm)
From the same people that bring us the Çiragan Palace in Istanbul, this über luxurious resort hits all the right buttons. Design was certainly a primary concern; just thinking about the rooms, the pools, the setting, the outdoor treatments; it just makes me giddy. For long stays, the hotel also offers self-service apartments.
4Reasons.
www.4reasonshotel.com
You'll be hard pressed to give me just one good reason not to go to this idyllic spot just outside of Yalikavak. This exquisite hotel is new to the neighborhood, and yet all the major national papers, plus a good handful of international magazines (Maison Française, Harpers Bazaar, Elle) have already staked their claim.
Where I Eat
Sünger Pizza
I shunned this casual Italian eatery and pizzeria until I heard from the local ex pat brigade that Sünger actually draws in a regular crowd with good food and real pizza. It's almost always busy, and for good reason.
La Jolla.
After a two year stint in Napoli, Italy and doing time in the restaurant business in San Diego, restaurateur Serdar Toprak has transplanted his Italian pasta making and oenophilia to Bodrum. The result is a solid menu of authentic pasta dishes, steaks and local seafood, a remarkable wine list and steady stream of regulars literally begging for a slice of his cheesecake.
Deniz han. See the Frommer's review (www.frommers.com/destinations/bodrum/D50374.html)
Kocadon. See the Frommer's review (www.frommers.com/destinations/bodrum/D50376.html)
Antique Theatre. See the Frommer's review (www.frommers.com/destinations/bodrum/D50372.html)
Arsipel. See the Frommer's review (www.frommers.com/destinations/bodrum/D50373.html)
I've yet to try some of the newer kitchens, but my sources tell me that I'll be heading to these soon. If you get there before I do, please let me know how you fared!
Barka, in the Marina, Marina Yacht Club. More of a nightlife spot. Next to Karada Marina.
Vittoria, across from the Post Office, Italian.
Gatto Fink, Neyzen Tevfik Street No. 32, high society
Memedof (also has a location in Göltürkbükü). Known for its grilled fish. Across from Karada Marina.
Kavakli Koftesi, in Yalikavak. Simple and good.
Epsilon. Not sure this one is still open, or if it's changed hands. But I hear that they are still creating a delicious menu that features vegetable crepes, herb-infused gazpacho, and a smoked salmon salad. And of course, the intimate garden setting is lovely.
Don't Leave Town Without
Experiencing the Blue Voyage like the first. You can rent a gullet for about 300YTL for 6 hours in high season. Negotiating at the harbor is part of the fun.
Wading through the shallow waters at Gümüslük to (and on top of) ancient Myndus, which slid into the sea centuries ago. The "modern" village of Gümüslük is one of the most charming, unspoiled and picturesque ones I've seen, and dining waterside is a good part of the attraction.
A visit to the Bodrum Underwater Archaeology Museum in St. Peter's Castle. Plan to be there around happy hour, to enjoy a glass of wine in the evocative main courtyard.
The Mausoleam of Halicarnassus. It'll take 20 minutes, because there's almost nothing there, but oh, just go.
A self-tour to the ancient troika of Miletus, Priene and Didyma. While you're at it, throw in a stroll through the little-visited and unexcavated site of Labyranda.
Datça and Kaunos. If Marmaris and the Datça Peninsula are not on your itinerary, you can hop over on a fast ferry and be back in Bodrum for a late dinner. Ferries leave Bodrum and arrive at the port of Korman, where transportation is provided to either the scenic port of Datça proper or along the bumpy road to ancient Kaunos, where you'll experience Carian cliff tombs, a grand amphitheatre, and the meeting of the Aegean with the Med.
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