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Antalya is hands down, Turkey's most populist, popular resort region. The area encompasses miles of sandy beaches to the east, where long expanses have been staked out by four- and five-star full service hotels. To the west, you'll find towering cliffs and craggy coves as far as the shabby-chic resort town of Kas. In between is the sun-kissed and celebrated resort city of Antalya, the ruins of ancient Lycia, Pamphylia, and Caria, and the footprint of early Christianity. Soaring fortress towns sit atop the Taurus Mountains, and regal Lycian tombs lie dormant in the surf.
I recommend that visitors take in this region by car. The roads are modern and easy, and there's too much to miss in-between bus stops. Of course, with limited time, many of us must make tough choices.
With one to two days, you'll want to stay near major transportation, a fact that will relegate you to the immediate environs of Antalya proper. (You can also choose to fly into Dalaman, where you can take advantage of the Fethiye region). Day tours are offered by a number of experienced agencies, opening up your vantage point considerably. A car, meanwhile, will allow for explorations beyond the confines of your base.
Where I Stay
Hillside Su, Konyaalti, Antalya
(www.hillside.com.tr/HillsideSuHotel)
Ever since the Hillside Su came to town, where I stay has become a no-brainer. It takes advantage of both a revived and vibrant waterfront and a fun and clever approach to design. (Read the Frommer's review: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/antalya/H49529.html)
Marmara Antalya
(www.themarmarahotels.com)
Read the feature story.
Olympos
About 45 minutes west of town in the beachfront village of Çirali are two outstanding boutique inns. The first is the Olympos Lodge (www.olymposlodge.net), but because nobody can ever get a reservation here, visitors are spilling over to the rustic Arcadia (www.arcadiaholiday.com). The village is home of the ancient site of Olympos, as well as the fire-breathing Cimera, which resides on the hillside above town. The setting for both really couldn't be lovelier, and the 20 minute drive down the mountain from the main road to the waterfront (alongside a riverbed blooming with bougainvillea) discourages the masses from frequenting this beach. Read the Frommer's review at http://www.frommers.com/destinations/antalya/2911027696.html
Kempinski Dome, Belek
(www.kempinskiantalya.com/en/home/index.htm)
While I don't usually steer visitors to the homogeneous deluxe resorts to the east and western beaches of Antalya, the Kempinski Dome, brought to us by the same people that gives us Istanbul's Çiragan Palace, warrants a mention. Located on the wide open sandy shores of Belek, the Dome adds a premiere golfing experience and a wellness center (for wives and non-golfers).
Club Çapa, Çukurbag Peninsula, Kas
(www.clubcapa.com)
In Kas, I usually stay out on the Çukurbag Peninsula (about 2 miles out) when I stay, specifically at the ClubCapa. Rooms are small, showers only, but the location is unbeatable, and the owners are young and vibrant. Dinner is served nightly and optional (and recommended, but you can opt out and eat in town). The hotel facilities are terraced down a relatively steep and lush garden incline, from the main swimming pool, past a smaller seawater pool, to the seafront "deck" terrace. There's also some water sports stuff. Book early and get one of the rooms with a head-on seaview.
Where I Eat
In Antalya Town
China Garden.
Atatürk Kültür Parki, Antalya
I'll tell you what a couple of ex-pat Americans that I met in Kalkan told me. Eat at the China Garden. So what's so special about Chinese food to an American couple? I highly recommend that you head into the Atatürk Kültür Park to find out. As a bonus, diners have the option of sitting indoors or dining on the cliffs overlooking the Gulf of Antalya. Read the Frommer's review: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/antalya/D50346.html
Hillside Su, Konyaalti, Antalya
(www.hillside.com.tr/HillsideSuHotel)
I'm truly not on the payroll of the Hillside Su. In the evenings, the poolside hilltop gets converted to a candlelit restaurant. The menu features fish, and while you'd expect exorbitant pricing from a hotel, here, the cost is reasonable.
In and Around Kalkan
Those doing the self-drive tour of the Turquoise Coast will want to head up into the mountains above Kalkan for a simple yet typical treat of fried trout. A number of eateries, from the humblest of shacks to the now-upscale Mahmut n'Yeri, line the road leading into Islamlar. Just follow the signs.
In and Around Kas
No point in coming to the Turquoise Coast without seeing the stunning beauty of Kekova Bay. The main access point is the village of Üçagiz, where boats set off for tours of the sunken city and the ancient castle at Simena (modern Kaleköy). If you've come this far, tell your captain you'll need about two hours in the latter, to allow for a filling lunch of some of the freshest fish you'll get on the coast. Restaurants line the waterfront, and in some cases, you can dip your feet as you dine.
Chez Evi.
Telvi Sok. 4, Kas center
Chez Evi in Kas town center, is the creation of a French ex-pat from the region of Provence. A meal here can get pricy, but it's well worth the splurge. Read the Frommer's review http://www.frommers.com/destinations/kas/D50341.html
Don't Leave Town Without
Picnicing in Phaselis. This picturesque ancient site sits at the waters edge of a pine forest, where three natural harbors are connected by the ruins of a marble colonnaded street.
Climbing up the mountain at sunset to see the fires of the Chimera above Olympos.
Touring the ancient theatre at Aspendos, preferably in conjunction with an opera performance. Combine this with a visit to the sister site of Perge.
A seaside stroll along Konyaalti Beach, by day or by night.
Enjoying cocktails on the ramparts of Kaleiçi.
A tour of the Lycian site of Myra, outside Demre (aka Kale), where St. Nicholas (Santa Clause) is said to have lived.
Making the most of Kekova Bay, by kayak, by boat, or by lunching waterside. Too bad you can't really see those sunken ruins.
Sunbathing, for an hour at least, at Kaputas Beach, just east of Kalkan. The beach forms the outlet of a rocky gorge, and from here, it's just a marathon swim to the Blue Grotto.
Admiring the restored village houses of Kalkan. With the highest density of restaurants on the coast, you'll want to have a bite to eat here as well. (Try Korsan, or the less expensive Bezirgan's Kitchen at the town entrance).
A swim at Kalamar Bay. The rocks form an isolated "beach." Some water sports are available, but believe me, it's enough to enjoy the view.
Canoeing the marshy inlets at Patara. Don't miss the under-celebrated ruins on your way out.
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