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Unless you've opted for a tour that includes Ankara's Museum of Anatolian Civilizations on its circuit of major tourist destinations in Turkey, it's unlikely that you'll be stopping over in Ankara as you make a B-line from Istanbul to Cappadocia. I can't truly fault you for that omission, because, given a finite time-window of opportunity and countless sites to see in Turkey, Ankara isn't high on my list either. But I have the luxury of saying that, because I've already been there. In fact, I spent an entire month, complete with a day job and a membership at the neighborhood gym. In my free time, I revisited the Atatürk Mausoleum (with its redone museum), tooled around the Ulus market and fortress neighborhood as much as I could, snapped up US$10 Ralph Lauren terry robes at the weekly market and reacquainted myself with the city's Republican beginnings. As a result, I now can add Ankara to the growing list of Turkish towns where I feel at home, Naturally, I want you to enjoy "my home" as much as I do.
But alas, that pesky time constraint. One full day in Ankara will certain do the trick, and if you're either driving or taking the overnight sleeper train, a stop in Ankara will keep you on schedule. Be sure to visit the new Rahmi Koç Industrial Museum in the restored 15th century Çengel Han opposite the entrance to the Citadel. The courtyard brasserie promises a combination of historic character and quality fare. Outside, this corner of Ulus is also where you'll find artisans working in copper, a smattering of newish coffee shops, and much of the city's inventory of Turkish carpets (outside of the hotels).
Where to Stay
Swissôtel
Yildizevler Mahallesi, 21 Sokak No: 2, 06550 Çankaya tel. 0312/409-3000. http://ankara.swissotel.com
The paint is still tacky on this brand new luxury Swissôtel property, appropriately housed among the governmental and ambassadorial elite. And if "luxury" is the new buzz word in business hotel properties, this one nails it, by designing standard rooms as yesterday's suites. The Amrita or "elixir of youth" wellness center, promises to wash away stress and fatigue through integrated, and healthily-priced treatments. Not a bad choice for those on a business account, but keep your eyes peeled for tantalizing incentives in the hotel's initial months.
Gordion Hotel
Büklüm Sokak 59, just off of Tunali Hilmi, Kavaklidere. Tel. 0312/427-8080. www.gordionhotel.com
The Gordion Hotel occupies a quiet yet convenient corner off of Tunali Hilmi, where locals eat, shop and people-watch. The hotel, an oversized "boutique" property, has the man's touch, with leather, brass and wood as the main design materials. It's all very comfy, albeit not as cozy as one might wish, but I'll take this over floral prints and dust ruffles any day. The basement swimming pool and wellness center, which includes a beauty, spa and fitness services, is the perfect start or finish to a long day.
Angora House
Kalekapisi Sok. 16, 06240 Ankara (in the citadel; instruct the taxi driver). Tel. 0312/309-8380. Fax 0312/309-8381
Restore a house in the Citadel and they will come. That was the idea behind the Angora House, a home-style Turkish bed and breakfast on Ankara's historic hill. For a one-nighter, it couldn't get any more convenient, with both the museum and the Cengel Han just steps away.
Where I Eat
Mantar
4 Cadde 4/A Yildiz. Tel. 0312/440-0978
It wasn't enough to slip out of the office for a quick lunch at Mantar. In the evenings, my roommate and I would confer over dinner plans, and inevitably, Mantar topped the list. Mantar? Yes! Mantar! It's an unassuming little eatery composed of a handful of indoor and outdoor (weather permitting) tables and chairs. But oh, those semolina balls (Karamanmaras koftesi), the yaprak dolmasi, the fresh yogurt! And for dessert warm irmik helvasi. Rarely do you find one this good. And best of all, a feast for two will barely top $15 per person.
Divan Brasserie
Located in the courtyard of Cengel Han. www.divan.com.tr/gastronomi/cengelhan/default.asp?sxx=0
There are a number of traditional-style dining experiences (Zenger Pasha's saç kavurma and serenade come to mind) available in the Citadel as well as a number of scenic terrace restaurants. But I recommend capitalizing on the chance to prolong a visit to the restored 16th century merchant inn while sampling some of the Divan's treats. A number of salads and specialties (Ankara Tava; stewed sea bass) complement the menu; if you're looking for a snack, the Divan name got its start with exceptional baklava and other sweets.
Washington Restaurant
in the Citadel; Tel: 312/311 4344
The chef and owner of this Ankara institution originally took the name of the city where he cut his culinary teeth, honoring his experience in the capital city with a menu fit for, well, an ambassador. Ironically, for a restaurant that opened in the midst of the Cold War, the restaurant serves entrees and appetizers that replicate Russian dishes popular in Ankara in the 30's. Turkish staples are also featured, in addition to a gooey chocolate soufflé.
Don't Leave Town Without
Enjoying the hustle and bustle of Kizilay, with its cafes, bookstores, shops and internet cafes. Very lively. (Sakarya Caddesi; Tuna Caddesi)
A visit to the Atatürk Mausoleum. If you didn't know anything about Turkey's Republican genesis, then a walk past the sound and light dioramas in the museum will clear things up a bit. Take a closer look at the titles in Atatürk's libarary, upstairs, and pay your respects at the tomb.
A stroll through the ages at the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations is the reason you came here. Need I say more?
The Wednesday bazaar in Asagi Aranci (off Hosdere Caddesi) or the Wednesday and Saturday market in the Abdi Ipekçi Park in Sihiyye. Ankara's markets are my favorite, as they lack the sales aggression and insincerity of bazaars in tourist centers. Sure, you'll find plenty of cross-your-heart bra look-alikes, but you'll also stumble upon representative textiles, excellent all-purpose cotton camisoles, and perhaps an errant DKNY. For a real local feel buy some dried fruits and nuts at the bustling Ulus market, then wander up the hill towards the fortress.
When faced with a landslide of culture, the idea of an industrial museum may hold little appeal. But, like its sister museum in Istanbul, the Rahmi Koç Industrial Museum in Ankara offers just enough historical and engineering trivia to make it rather intriguing. It certainly helps that the entire outfit is located inn the newly restored, 16th century merchant inn, Cengelhan (http://cengelhan.com/).
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