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Lying at the crossroads of two major tectonic plates and dozens of minor ones, Turkey as a land mass is in constant upheaval. With all of this dangerous geological activity, at least the country gets some benefit: thermal springs. Essentially, Turkey is one big open air spa. Developers have of course sat up and taken notice; this would account for the five star thermal establishments in places like Çesme and Bursa. While divinely sybaritic, those outdoor treasures are just as appealing, in their own way.
Bursa
Bursa is a major hotbed of mineral spring and thermal activity, and its no wonder why the Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans all chose it as their base at one time or another. Except for two or three hotels, the thermal establishments are extremely democratic (read: a bit rundown), but don't let that deter you from one of the more sublime experiences you will have while immersed in a grave pit full of steaming hot mud. The Caesar of all of Bursa's populist hamams is the Yeni Kaplica complex (Tel. 224/236-6968), with separate facilities for men, women, families, mud treatments and resting booths. Heading upscale and back in time is the 700-year-old historic hamam at the Kervansary Hotel (Çekirge Meydani, Çekirge/Bursa, Tel. 0224/233-9300) with intimate pools alive with fresh mountain spring water. Similarly, the Çelik Palace Hotel (Tel. 0224/233-3800, soon to become a Swissôtel Property) was the country's first five star hotel; recently renovated, the domed thermal pool will make you faint, both for its beauty and the heat (the temperatures rise as the day progresses, so evening visits are best).
Oddly enough, Pamukkale is known more for the travertine terraces than for its thermal properties, but the former wouldn't even exist without the latter. Most hotels, even the grungiest, take advantage of a thermal source. The Colossae (www.colossae.com.tr) and Richmond Hotels (www.richmondhotels.com.tr) boast full-service thermal spas; I personally like to soak among the archaeological detritus of ancient Rome at the Pamukkale Thermal (Tel. 0258/272-2024; admission $5), inside the archaeological site of Hieropolis.
The name Çesme, or "fountain" conjures up images of extensive thermal waters. No small wonder that Turkey's smart set, chased away from its lair along the stunning bays of the Bodrum Peninsula by savvy tourists, have since landed here. The Sheraton's five star Termalife center in Ilica (www.sheraton.com) will break the bank while repairing most of your physical (and even psychological ailments).
There'll be limited English spoken at the down-to-earth Dogal Sifa Merkezi's small thermal pool (Tel. 0232/717-2424), 3km north of Ilica on the right in Sifne). This diminutive thermal center also has beauty and massage therapies, along with its very own mud pit.
Moving further downscale are two of my favorites: the tiny thermal pool sitting above the sandy inlet at Vekamp Camping at Pasa Limani and the scalding bubbly in somewhat open water in Ilica – walk out to the end of the Yildiz Peninsula and you can't miss it. The latter – a small rock enclosed pool - gets busy with locals taking the cure, as well as repressed post-adolescent men taking advantage of what they consider a free show.
About 15 miles east of Avanos is the rough-and-ready thermal spring of Bayram Haci Kaplica ([tel] 0352/394-7097, inside the Yali Camping site in the village of the same name). Late night dips under the open sky are a specialty. It's a hard one to find though: To get there, take the road to Avanos and turn right after the bridge following signs east to Kayseri. Follow the road for about 8 miles, then turn right after the little bridge over Güynük Stream, continuing for another 6 miles. Watch for signs to Yali Camping or for Bayram Haci Kaplica. (If there's an unmarked fork in the road, take the right one).
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