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If Turkey has become Europe's answer to the winter (and summer) doldrums, then Istanbul, like Prague a decade ago, is the new frontier. Istanbul is abuzz with progress - and a lust for life. With a solid economy and investments pouring in from abroad, Turks are now crowding out the foreign clientele in the city's best restaurants and venues. And there are now, plenty of them. Not to be dissuaded, students, ex-pats and the most recent generation of soul seekers are staking out their claim to this most wonderful, sometimes infuriating and always fascinating town.
My latest visit to Istanbul lasted a mere five hours. After a month confined to the bleak deprivations, socially, culturally and culinary, of Turkmenistan, followed by a long and low-tech middle-of-the-night process of exiting the country, my flight landed at Istanbul's Atatürk Airport at 6:30 AM. Upon entering the terminal, I literally almost got down on my hands and knees and kissed the ground. Instead, I settled for a short nap at the Airport Hotel, where I reveled in the ability to check my email, toggle between CNN and the BBC on the adjacent satellite TV, and then decompress at the breakfast bar over two strong cups of cappuccino. The barista and I exchanged friendly morning banter, and I realized, with a sense of proto-ebullience, that I was almost home.
I chose this snapshot as my introduction to Istanbul to convey to my readers the reality of the modern city that is much different than what a first-time visitor might expect. The alternate reality – one of domed mosques, soaring minarets, exotic Ottoman architecture and black-clad female shadows gliding through the Hippodrome – is also true. It's this very duality that goes to the essence of Istanbul. So although I urge my readers to revel in the city's standard fare (the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi, Grand Bazaar), I also urge them to seek out Istanbul's other true face: visible in the city's new Modern Museum, in the burgeoning list of world class restaurants, and along the fashionable shopping streets of Nisantasi and Bagdat Caddesi.
So here's my advice, below. How much time will you need? Conservatively, I'd suggest a budget of three full (long) days for the basics; much more if you plan to explore the Princes Islands or the Asian side.
Where to Stay
Four Seasons
www.fourseason.com
The Four Seasons truly doesn't need my plug. Still, it's helpful to some to weigh even the unimpeachable in the balance. So, the main reason to stay here, besides the fact that it's the Four Seasons, is that the hotel is itself a slice of Turkish history – it's actually the site of a mid-20th century prison for political dissidents. There's even an original marble pillar with prisoners' carvings of his initials. But it's also smack dab in the middle of the historic neighborhood of Sultanahmet, midway between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. Oh, and the bathrooms are divine. Guests can also count on the almost faultless Seasons restaurant, and some of the best unobstructed views in the neighborhood, from the low-lying roof terrace. The cons? There's no gym or pool, and the property has a limited number of rooms.
Çiragan Palace
www.ciragan.com
Personally, aside from the grounds and the opulence, this hotel is overrated. At this level, one would expect gracious and flawless service and perfection in the rooms. Maybe it's just because one has such high hopes that any little wrinkle looms large. There's another problem: it's bloody far – unbearable in traffic.
Radisson the Bosporus
www.radissonsas.com
Although I haven't had the opportunity to stay at this brand new hotel yet, it's just a matter of time. Newly constructed – in my opinion to catch the spillover from the Ciragan Palace – the Radisson has a couple of advantages. First, while still somewhat north of the sights of the Old City, the location is just a stones throw from Dolmabahçe Palace and Taksim Square, and veritably on top of the endearing waterside village of Ortakoy.
Sofa Hotel
123 Tesvikiye, Nisantasi; Tel. 0212/368-1818. www.thesofahotel.com
Istanbul's market for luxury boutique and high end hotels seems to know no bounds. As of March 06, the luxury Sofa Hotel (123 Tesvikiye, Nisantasi; tel. 01190 212/368-1818) joins the throng, going everyone else one better with it's "anything, anytime" service (suites only; the masses have to satisfy themselves with rain showers, private bars and yummy design). This extends to the liberal check in and check out policies (can arrive as early as noon and stay till 3pm)
Where I Eat
Develi
Balikpazari. Gümüsüyüzük Sok. 7, Samatya. Tel. 0212/529-0833; www.develikebap.com
I'm getting a hankering for their cig köfte (raw spicy meat eaten rolled up in lettuce) and pistachio kebabs as I type. The cuisine is traditional Gaziantep; the food is the best. Period. Reservations required, seasonal rooftip al fresco dining. Dress casual but smart. (Take the coastal road in the direction of the airport; in the neighborhood of Samatya, there's a sign for the restaurant and parking/entrance on your right.)
Asitane
In the Kariye Oteli. Kariye Camii Sok. 18 (adjacent to the Church of St. Savior in Chora); Edirnekapi. Tel. 0212/534-8414; www.kariyeotel.com
The East's first real fusion food was created in the vast kitchens of the Ottoman Sultans, with strange and exotic ingredients shipped in from the far corners of the Empire. Asitane's kitchen has managed to recreate some of these original and taste-tantalizing recipes. Reservations suggested, seasonal courtyard al fresco dining. Dress smart.
Balikci Sabahattin
Sultanahmet (behind Armada Hotel). Tel. 0212/458-1824; www.armadahotel.com.tr
The best fish experience this side of the Golden Horn. Splurge with the prix fixe, or splurge for the a la carte. Reservations required. Characteristic streetside tables or inside the restored Ottoman clapboard house. Dress casual smart.
Doga Balik
Akarsu Yokusu Caddesi No: 44-46, in the Zurich Boutiqe Hotel, Cihangir. Tel. 0212/293-0604; www.dogabalik.com.tr
A friend who turned me on to this restaurant, herself a committed foodie, didn't steer me wrong when she said the food here was so good it made her moan. Appetizers number in the mid to high double digits, and are divided between succulent seafood salads and luscious greens that include nettles, feverfew, purslane and "goat food". Don't miss the lentil balls or the monkfish salad. The fresh catch of the day (usually around four types) are almost besides the point. Almost.
360 Istanbul
Istiklal Caddesi, Misir Apt. No 32/309, 8th floor; 0212/251-1042. www.360istanbul.com
The sky was overcast and the hour early the day I dined here. Nevertheless, although my friends and I knew we should have made a reservation, and that we should have arranged to get there early enough to park ourselves at one of the prime outdoor terrace banquettes overlooking, well, everything, we still decided that 360 was the hands-down winner of the "where should we eat?" contest. The various menus ("East", "West" and the clever cocktail selection) infuse more personality to a space with plenty of it, but even the eclectic design takes a back seat to the towering belfry of St. Antoines, which itself sits on a canvas of postcard sea and city views.
Çiya
Caferaga Mah, Güne_libahÇe Sokak 43/44 and 48B; www.ciya.com.tr
It never ceases to amaze me how many "best authentic Turkish restaurants" exist in Istanbul. But it's convincing when you stumble upon a memorable meal that only those in-the-know know something about. And since few venture to the Asian side for want of the luxury of time, Çiya (pronounced "Chee-yuh") still remains a true find.
Mikla
Mesrutiyet Caddesi 167/185; 0212-293-5656, www.istanbulyi.com
With star chef, Mehmet Gürs, at the helm, it didn't take long for Mikla's star to rise. It certainly helps that the restaurant enjoys panoramic rooftop views from atop the new Marmara Pera hotel. The combination is winning. The kitchen is already known for its porcini soup, beef cheek ragu and almond paste soufflé; order plenty, as portions are reminiscent of nouvelle cuisine.
Hünkar Lokantasi
Nispetiye Cad. No: 52, Etiler, 011 90 212 287 84 70
Mim Kemal öke Cad. No: 21/1m Nisantasi, 011 90 212 225 46 65
Friends consistently tout this Istanbul institution as the quintessential Turkish restaurant. The restaurant, with two locations in town, prepares a menu of traditional and flavorful Ottoman home cooking. Incidentally, the irmžk helva, served warm and creamy, was the best I'd ever had.
Don't Leave Town Without
Listed below are the little-known and little-visited sights and sounds I recommend to friends who ask. These are meant to supplement, not replace, your meanderings around the Old City, which would naturally include visits to the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, Yerebatan Cistern and the Grand Bazaar.
Pera Museum. Recently opened in Beyoglu, this representative collection of Kütahya ceramics, Ottoman weights and measures, and a stunning exhibit of well-known (at least to Turks) Ottoman portraiture from the 18th to the 20th centuries, is well worth the hour it will take to stroll through. The museum is open 10 to 7pm Tues to Saturday and 10 to 6 Sunday; admission is 7YTL ($5). Mesrutiyet Caddesi 141; tel. 01190/212/334-9900; http://www.pm.org.tr/index_en.html.
The Istanbul Modern. Modern art in the nexus of ancient civilizations? It's true, and the museum has rapidly won the hearts and minds of the city, the country and of Europe. Reinforcing Istanbul's and Turkey's inherent contradictions, the collection provides a window into the Turkish mindset, it's historical and cultural origins, and its contribution to visual arts. The museum is open Tues through Sunday 10 to 6pm and until 8pm on Thursdays. Admission is 5YTL ($3.70). Children under 12 admitted free. Meclis-I Mebusan Caddesi, Liman Is[cd]letmeleri Sahasi[id], Antrepo No: 4, Karaköy (approximately 250 steps from the Fi[id]ndi[id]kli[id] stop on the tramway, heading in the direction of Dolmabahçe Palace) Tel. 0212 334-7300. www.istanbulmodern.org
The Mehter Band and the Military Museum. Please don't miss this: an exhibition of the fear and awe-inspiring mehter band, an exciting sampling of the musical and psychological might of the Ottoman army. (Click here for more information).
Two hours at the Istanbul Archaeology Museum. After spending half a day in Topkapi Palace, few have the stomach for another museum. But of all the "must sees" in Istanbul, this is among those at the top of the list, with almost 3000 years of history represented in particular, in the building housing the Museum of the Ancient Orient and in the "Istanbul through the Ages" exhibit.
The Karaköy Tea Gardens. While the courtyard in the old Çorlulu Alipasha Medrese holds the top spot for tea-drinking and hookah pipe-smoking ambiance, this hidden corner is now anything but a well kept secret. Instead, I recommend the tea gardens in Karaköy, where students of the nearby technical university congregate and where Turkish is still the dominant language. There are cozy banquettes in cozy wooden shelters located just outside the entrance to the Istanbul Modern Museum, making both an excellent combination event.
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