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Fethiye

Fethiye View over the Blue Lagoon, Ölüdeniz
Photo by Saffet Emre Tonguç

Fethiye and the Turquoise Coast

The Mediterranean coastline from Fethiye to Antalya is one of Turkey's most valuable treasures; a pine covered paradise that drops unceremoniously from the Taurus Mountain Range into a sea so perfect that the world becomes a distant memory. This is where the Blue Voyage began, a cruise anywhere from one day to a week (or more, if you're independently wealthy) of tooling around the secluded coves of Fethiye Bay, exploring the mysterious tombs of ancient Lycia, carved to resemble grand temples, and swimming in iridescent caves along with the ghosts of Cleopatra.

Best Places to Stay

Ece Saray (www.ecesaray.net) is Fethiye's most recent addition. This gracious hotel sits on acres of landscaped property on the waterfront of the Fethiye Marina.

The Hillside Beach Club (www.hillside.com) provides a full service hotel resort experience without the hype. This location of the Hillside benefits from a secluded pine-clad bay east of Fethiye town. My main hesitation is that it's a bit too family friendly for my taste, but it's a big propertyŠ

The Swissotel Göcek (http://gocek.swissotel.com) has the advantage of having the only beach on Göcek Bay. The other advantage is that it's a Swissotel property.

What and Where to Eat

BBQ your own beef (and lamb) table-side at Cin Bal, in the village of Kayaköy. Cin Bal began as a local butcher, then expanded to the garden eatery it is today.

Live like the locals by purchasing your own fresh fish at the Fethiye market and handing it to the people at Cem and Can (also in the market). They'll cook your meal and provide accompaniments for an affordable fee.

Dine while being serenaded by the sound of the deep blue sea at the White Dolphin (www.beyazyunus.com), on the cliff above Ölüdeniz.

Don't Leave Town Without

Heading over to the stunning and little-visited Gemiler Bay just up the coast from the Blue Lagoon. You'll need a car or moped to get here; the road will take you through the mountain valley of Kaya and past the abandoned Greek village of the same name. Once arrived at Gemiler Bay, you can swim, row or hire a boat for the short crossing over to Gemiler Island (aka St. Nicholas Island) where you can walk through the ruins of the Byzantine monastery. (Bring money; there's a nominal entrance fee).

Seeing the abandoned villages of Kayaköy at sunset.

An afternoon on the almost-deserted beach at Butterfly Valley. Tiger Butterflies come out of their cocoons once a year between July and September. The valley is backed by 350 meter high cliffs, making this spot nothing less than paradise. You'll need to take a water taxi here from Belcekiz Beach in Ölüdeniz.

Five minutes in the Blue Lagoon. With the crowds that gather here you won't want to stay longer, but there's no way you should do without a first-hand look at Turkey's poster child. Better yet, get the birds-eye view by flying over the beach strapped to a power pack.

Picking up a short leg of the Lycian Way. I recommend the road to Faralya (above the White Dophin Restaurant on the cliff overlooking Ölüdeniz) or over the mountain from Kayaköy to Cold Water Bay. Remember: once you get where you're going, you have to get back!

A starlight view of Amyntas Tomb, Fethiye town.

Lunch on fresh trout on a carpeted platform above the icy runoff at Saklikent Gorge. Take your water shoes. On your way back, take the turnoff for Tlos, and spend an hour exploring this ancient Lycian city.

A visit to Göcek and the Göcek Marina. The sheltered, mountain-enclosed marina accommodates boats destined for the Blue Cruise.

Seeing the open-air museums of Xanthos, Patara and Letoon. Most visitors include these sites as part of a day trip out of Kas or Kalkan (technically part of Antalya), but Fethiye offers another option.