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A Turkey Primer
- A brief history of time in Anatolia
- The People
- Geography
- The Economy
General Questions About Turkey
- Are There Any Health Concerns?
- When is a good time to go?
- What's the electrical current?
- What should I wear?
- Why Turkey?
Planning Your Trip
- How Do I Get/Change Money?
- Is it Safe to Drive?
- Do I Need a Visa?
- Getting There by Air
Food And Drink Related Questions
- What's the food like?
- Can we drink the wine?
- Can we drink the water?
A Turkey Primer
The Economy
With the help of international loans, Turkey has been able to develop a modernized industrial sector; in fact Turkey's growth in GDP currently rivals China's. There is no doubt about Anatolia's location at the crossroads of East and West and the center of Mediterranean commerce. And a legacy of earthquakes never seemed to succeed in chasing away Empire after conquering Empire. When not bolstered by the war machine, the economy was fed by agriculture - - - the minerals that gush forth from Earth's open wounds result in terribly tasty fruits and vegetables. But when faced with the roar of the industrial age, Turkey just never managed to keep up with the changing times. With the help of international loans, however, Turkey has been able to develop a modernized industrial sector.
As part of its strong agricultural and industrial sectors, Turkey is a major producer of textiles. Attracted by an inexpensive labor force, big names that include Nautica, Calvin Klein, Banana Republic, and even Disney are produced in factories here.
Still, a major sector of the economy runs on tourism. But Turkey still has a long way to go in order to empower its citizens, as village life still entails the baking of bread in group ovens and living above a fly-infested stable. At the end of a long day, a woman's work has just begun (as the men sit down for their 25th cup of tea), as she strives to bring into the household some added income by weaving carpets. Her efforts have been rewarded at least in that she has elevated the craft to a level of international artistic excellence. But sadly, she will rarely, if ever, see the benefits. Keep this in mind as you tour those opulent production centers, and if at all possible, buy locally, in small shops.
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Geography
From the gorge of Saklikent to the steppes of Central Anatolia on up to the peaks of Mt. Ararat, Turkey's geography is rich and varied. Anatolia, also known as Asia Minor, describes Turkey's considerable massive protuberance from Asia's westernmost borders, with the Black Sea to the north, the Aegean to the west – with several Greek islands only a stone's throw away – and the Mediterranean to the south. Only 3% of Turkey actually resides in Europe – the region bordering Greece and the Bulgaria that includes part of Istanbul - but that hasn't stopped Turkey from pushing forward in its bid for European membership. Turkey is the dubious owner of real estate wedged inside three intersecting tectonic plates, and as we all learned, perhaps for the first time in August 1999, seriously prone to earthquakes. As the toppled columns and heaps of rubble in some of the world's most significant archaeological sites will attest, this seismic activity is nothing new; earthquakes, volcanoes and winds have shaped much of the country's geography, from the funky phalluses of Cappadocia's valleys (formerly an enormous lake filled with volcanic viscera) to the sallow steppe lands of the interior, to the superb mountain peaks that practically wrap the country's perimeter in mountain ranges. The good news is that all of this geological conflict makes for some stunning scenery: the Greeks were the first to really appreciate a good cliffside by transforming it into the cavea of an open-air theatre, with nature as the stage's backdrop. But high mountains make great fortresses, provide good hiking and skiing opportunities and often crash downward into stunning gorges, and where there's volcanic or seismic activity, you can bet there's a great spa nearby.
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The People
Through centuries of migrations, invasions, and world domination, it's fair to say that Turkey vies for the title of the original "melting pot" of humanity... Through centuries of migrations, invasions, and world domination, it's fair to say that Turkey was the original "melting pot" of humanity, and that the Turk is not necessarily of purebred descent with a direct line his forebears. If it weren't for that thick black mustache, it would be difficult to spot a Turk in a
market, but it certainly gets confusing when that same market is bubbling over with red-heads and blue-eyed blonds. Blame it on over-sexed Sultans, on military recruitment, on frisky foreign diplomats, or on the hot Mediterranean blood; there's no one stereotypical Turk (except for that mustache). Turkey is 98% Muslim, but where this might bring up images of repression and violence, Turks are extremely proud and fiercely protective of their secular status (obviously there are those of the "right" who would prefer to see Turkey governed by Islamic law, but the military takes has up to now played an active role in guarding separation of Mosque and State). Traditional roles are more prominent in the villages, where women wear scarves, work in the fields and are rarely seen on the street after dark. In the city, while, men are the more gregarious of the population, probably because their livelihoods depend on it. But on a whole, as a population with its roots in nomadic desert living, family, hospitality and generosity take precedence, since one never knew when it would be his turn to show up at someone's tent flap hungry and thirsty and in need of TLC. Historically, Turkey has a legacy of public works – even insurance was invented by the Selçuks – manifested in public baths, Mosque complexes that included a theological seminary and hospital, and a vast system of roadside inns called Caravanseries that provided respite, protection and sustenance for weary travelers along the silk road. Centuries of wandering around and living in tents had an effect on the cuisine as well: Turks have elevated the nomadic custom of roasting meats over an open fire to new levels of culinary artistry, especially with the infusion of innovative recipes designed to dazzle the Sultan and exotic spices brought in from all over a vast and diverse Empire. In Turkey, that "melting pot" smells awfully good.
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A brief history of time in Anatolia
In the beginning, Noah's Ark landed on Mt. Ararat, or so recovered fossilized wooden boat-like support beams might indicate... In the beginning, Noah's Ark landed on Mt. Ararat, or so recovered fossilized wooden boat-like support beams might indicate. From around 2000 BC, we see the appearance of Assyrian merchants in Anatolia living side-by-side with the Hittites, an ancient tribe of uncertain mixed Indo-European origins. During the Ataturk years of the early 20th century, Republican Turkey strived to reunite a floundering cultural heritage by acknowledging the Hittites as an important part of Turkey's cultural heritage. By 1200 BC (around the time of the last sacking of Troy), the Hittite Kingdom had run out of steam, in no small part due to the invasions of an unidentified "Sea Peoples." From the demise of the Hittite Empire up until the arrival of Alexander the Great, Anatolia was ruled by a series of powerful and independent kingdoms that by 334 BC had for the most part been absorbed of dominated by the Persian Empire. Alexander's victory was short-lived: after his death, his hard-won territories were divided amongst his adversarial commanders and ultimately absorbed by the Roman Empire, either by force or by cooperation. By the 4th century AD, Byzantium, centered around the coveted strategic metropolis of Constantinople, had created an empire rivaling the spendor of Rome. Split ideologically for centuries from its "Adam's rib," Constantinople ultimately surpassed Rome as a global power, assuming the role as the center of not only Christianity, but the of the world. Byzantium did not flourish without opposition, however, particularly from the East. The 7th and 8th centuries were marked by a massive migration of warring nomadic tribes arriving from Mongolia ("Turk" comes from the Chinese "Tu-Kiu"), who, on their way through Baghdad, mixed it up with Arabic tribes and absorbed their religion of Islam. The defeat of the Byzantine army at Malazgirt in 1071 at the hand of the Selçuk arm of the Turkoman tribes opened the floodgates of Turkish migration into Anatolia; the Selçuks created a significant Empire that would be a source of endless headaches to Byzantine Emperors, and a source of architectural, cultural and spiritual enrichment for the rest of us. But through a twist of fate, it wasn't the Selçuks who managed to ultimately overcome the failing Byzantine Empire, but another, even more brutally contentious tribe ruled by father and leader, Osman. These Osmanli, (Ottomans to we Anglophiles) systematically subdued region after region of Anatolia, until their ultimate victory in 1453, when Mehmet II ("The Conqueror") finally made it over the Byzantine defensive walls of Constantinople. The history of the Ottoman Empire is a series of novels in itself, but lets just say that the next 450 years saw unparalleled cultural enrichment, inspirational intellectual pursuits, complex religious developments, unfathomable cruelty and impenetrable mystery. The last Sultans were unable to confront a changing world and unprepared for the balancing act between world powers. By WWI, Turkey had deteriorated into a political pawn, and if it hadn't been for one man, Mustafa Kemal, Atatürk, Turkey would have been portioned off into individual colonies and wiped off the face of cartological history. (I made up that word). The Republic of Turkey now celebrates its 76th year as a democratic, secular and independent state.
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The Low-Down On Bird Flu
In developed countries, it would seem beyond our comprehension that local children play ³football² with the severed head of the family chicken dinner.
But in rural regions where poor families live in close proximity to their livestock and chickens, the H5N1 virus, better known as avian influenza, has successfully made the jump from chickens to humans. There have been a number of confirmed cases of the virus in humans in Turkey, but these are overwhelmingly located in the least developed regions of the rural east and southeast. There are, however, three confirmed cases in Ankara (whose slums are the destination for job-seeking migrants from the country's poorest regions). In response, Turkey has banned all hunting of fowl and sales of poultry in open markets.
If you're wondering what this means for your trip to Turkey, probably very little, unless you're headed to the province of Van or Erzurum. In any case, limited direct contact with fowl (dead or alive) is your best way to go. Lucky for us, lamb is plentiful and delicious.
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General Questions About Turkey
Are There Any Health Concerns?
There are very few health issues associated with travel in Turkey. The worst mishap will probably be a result of drinking fresh water or dining on foods that have been sitting out in the sun all (or many) day(s). While public water is generally safe to drink, it is more than likely that the bacteria naturally present in the local water will not be well-received by your digestive system. Don't expect much more from the many fresh water springs found rushing down Turkish mountains, and resist the temptation to taste nature's liquid bounty. Drink only bottled water, but don't be scared off by a sliced tomato.
No immunizations are necessary for travel in Turkey, however if you plan on venturing southeast into malaria-infected areas, particularly along the coastline between Mersin and the Iraqi border, arm yourself with a prophylactic. For general ailments like sunburn, diarrhea, headaches head colds and such, put yourself in the hands of the highly capable pharmacists, who are incidentally, also trained and authorized in treating more serious physical ailments. Given the severity of the injury or ailment, you may want to seek out a local physician. The best recommendations come from people you know, so ask your hotel concierge for a recommendation. Doctors also advertise their services via public signs, either along the road or outside of their practice, however most people will feel less comfortable dealing with an unknown and anonymous entity.
If you find yourself in need of emergency treatment, opt for the emergency room of one of the private hospitals, as you will want to avoid the inferior care at the public ones. You can also count on at least a minimum of proficiency in English, as most doctors are bilingual. To call an ambulance from anywhere in the country, dial 112.
There are several emergency health care options in Istanbul, including the American Hospital on Güzelbahçe Sokak in the neighborhood of Nisantasi (Tel. 212/231-4050), the International Hospital in Yesilyurt (Tel. 212/663-3000) and the Jewish Hospital on Hisarönü Caddesi No: 46/48 in Fatih (Tel. 212/524-1156). You can also obtain a list of English-speaking doctors and medical outlets at the American Embassy.
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When is a good time to go?
While anytime is a good time to travel to Turkey, there are a number of considerations, particularly if you're hoping to partake in seasonal festivals or visit a coastal resort when the hotels are open. Not even the weather in Turkey is uncomplicated. With a toe-hold in Europe and 98% of the country in Asia, Turks, especially the modern ones, love to point out their hot-blooded Mediterranean lineage, but even this is easy to forget during those unexpected but lovely blizzards in Istanbul that swoop down from the Black Sea on the same day you put on your loose cotton linens. Istanbul is also primed for frequent rain from November through March, but with the decrease in tourist crowds (and prices), these months can often be the most rewarding times to go.
The southern coastline, which climatically speaking, includes the Aegean coastline from Izmir south, experiences mild winters, with rarely a snowflake to be seen. Summers along the coastline can be terrifyingly hot, and the more southeasterly you go and the closer you get to August, the more miserably hot and humid it will be. The best way to work with the weather is to increase your access to water in the hotter months (better yet: engulf yourself in it by booking a mini-cruise or diving trip), or plan you travel during the shoulder months of September, October, April and May.
One sidebar refers to the interior: the vast plateau of barren steppes, particularly in Cappadocia. Here, even in the doggiest days of summer, the nighttime will usher in a cool and refreshing breeze, much like what you would expect in the desert, given the absence of heat-retaining landmarks and wide open hills. In the wintertime, a fresh blanket of snow over the valleys and penile chimneys of Cappadocia can definitely make winter sports enthusiasts (cross-country skiing, trekking, horsebackriding/happy campers.
World War I buffs will want to visit the battlefields of the Gallipoli Peninsula, but the true pilgrim will plan his or her tour around Anzac Day, April 24-25th, a day set aside to honor the thousands of fallen Australian and New Zealander soldiers. The day is marked by a series of back to back memorial services scheduled from one cemetery to the next, with the first service beginning at dawn. The other side of the coin is the Turkish celebration of their victory in defending the Dardanelles against invading British warships one month earlier. The festival of Victory on March 18th is celebrated by performances of the traditional military mehter band, with its disconcerting cacophony of percussion aimed at terrorizing the opposing army.
Summertime celebrates a wide array of events throughout the country. Beginning with the Film Festival in April, the Istanbul International Festival kicks off a summertime of arts presentations. The Music Festival takes place in June and July, with classical performances by internationally renowned musicians presenting classical concerts, opera and ballet. The Jazz Festival warrants its own category, with performances by the best names in Jazz in clubs around town in late July.
In June and July, live performances of opera and ballet light up the wonderfully preserved ancient Theatre of Aspendos, located outside of Antalya. For information call 90 312/309-1409 or fax 90 312/310-7248.
If you've ever had the urge to witness a group of grown men slather their jean-clad naked torso-ed selves with olive oil to foil the attempts of their wrestling opponent to get a solid grip, then an Oil Wrestling Tournament is for you. The most famous is the K?rkp?nar tournament in Edirne in late June/early July. Extremely popular among heterosexual Turks, this activity is as close to a national sport as you'll get.
On August 15th, in celebration of the Assumption, the Archbishop of Izmir conducts a special mass at Meryemana, the House of the Virgin Mary, located above Ephesus. Expect a mob scene, as Muslims also honor the "prophets" of the Old Testament.
For anyone interested in spirituality, mysticism and sacred rites, the Mevlana Festival will be a certain inspiration. The sema, a spiritual dance performed by the Sufi sect of Islam (aka the Whirling Dervishes/is said to bring one closer to God through a ritual whirling dance. This spiritual ballet can be seen in all it's authenticity during the Festival of the Mevlana in December, in Konya. For information and tickets, contact the Tourism Office of Konya 90-332/351-1074 or a specialized travel agent.
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What's the electrical current?
The local current runs at 220 volts, which is compatible with European appliances. The jack is of the two-pronged round type, and transformers/adapters are widely available at electronics and travel supply stores everywhere. Hotels are increasingly wired for Ethernet (even wireless). Otherwise, phone jacks provide an outdated backup means to connect, but you'll need to come with your own access service, such as AOL. Most hotel rooms come equipped with hairdryers as well, so although most recent American models come with the ability to adapt to both types of current, you may not need to bring one at all.
What should I wear?
Yes, it's 98% Muslim, but don't expect everybody to be walking around wrapped up in black robes. The major modus operandi in Turkey reflects a general modesty in dress. For men, this means trousers and shirts, and it is unheard of for a male to remove his shirt in public, no matter how hot it gets. It is also very rare to see Turkish men in shorts. The majority of practicing female Muslims simply cover their heads with a floral scarf, and the further out in the country you get, the more creative mixes and matches you will see.
As a general rule, visitors can wear what they feel comfortable with, with some simple guidelines. On days when you will be visiting a place of worship (Mosques, tombs), women must cover their heads, arms and legs, and men not heeding my earlier advice will need to leave those bermuda shorts at home. More liberal dress is widely accepted in the seaside resort areas, but I'd council against stretch pants, biker shorts and excessively revealing tops in public. While Turkish women do wear short skirts, a conservative trend seems to have taken hold, so that these are fewer and further between. I even saw girls in long sweat pants in a gym in Ankara - the bastion of Turkish modernism - not a promising sign of the times. Thankfully, I find that capri pants are the answer to everything.
Dinner is not generally a formal affair, however, you'll feel most comfortable by dressing "smart" for meals, especially in hotels. Fancier dining rooms demand more from us, no matter where we are, so if you're planning on dining at the Four Seasons (for one), bring a jacket and tie.
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Why Turkey?
I say, "Why anywhere else?"
Turkey has everything one could want in a vacation. It's on the Mediterranean, for Pete's sake! Beyond the sun and sand, romantic retreats, pristine hidden coves, and thermals galore, Turkey is the home of layers of ancient civilizations. This country straddling East and West, Europe and Asia, will allow you to meander through the pre-classical kingdoms that provided the foundation for later empires --- Greek, Roman, Selçuk, Byzantine, and Ottoman.
Billed as the Cradle of Civilization, Turkey boasts more Greek ruins than in Greece and more Roman archaeological sites than in all of Italy. But that doesn't even touch upon prehistoric cave findings or the fact that the Hittites, Turkey's original indigenous culture, are mentioned several times in the Old Testament. More than anything, Turkey is a layering of civilization upon civilization, of Empire built upon Empire. When the bi-polar Roman Empire was languishing around the power-center of modern-day Rome, the Eastern Roman Provinces, ruled from Byzantium (modern-day Istanbul) were creating an unparalleled architectural, artistic, and religious legacy, most notably in the Byzantine Empire's shining monument, the Hagia Sofia. The arrival of the Ottomans in the 15th century inaugurated yet another several hundred years of splendor, visible in the excesses of Topkapi Palace, in the undulating domes of mosque complexes, and in the "must have" floral designs of Iznik ceramics.
While most tourist brochures zone in on archaeological ruins and artistic masterpieces, few devote the appropriate space to promoting the magnificence of Turkey's Mediterranean (Antalya, Göcek, Kas, Kalkan, Fethiye, Patara, Dalyan, Marmaris), the self-indulgent pleasures of basking in a mineral mud bath (Bursa, Dalyan, çesme), or the wide array of choices available for nature lovers and sports enthusiasts (see the Active Traveler).
But that's not all. In it's modern incarnation, Turkey is a land of exotic easternness, of unending tradition, of astounding simplicity, and of exquisite warmth and hospitality.
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Planning Your Trip
How Do I Get/Change Money?
Dealing with money matters in Turkey is one of the smoothest transitions you will make. There banks, cash machines on the Cirrus/Plus/Visa/Amex networks, and currency exchange services everywhere you go. Some people prefer to carry at least a minimum of local currency upon arrival, but since the airports are equipped with banks and money exchange booths, stocking up on Turkish lira is as easy as getting off the plane.
You'll get the best rates of exchange through ATM cash withdrawals, but BEWARE that banks are now routinely charging up to 5% commission on the total. That means that currency exchange booths (döviz in Turkish) are now probably the most economical options, if not a big backward step in traveler convenience. It's best to avoid changing your money at the banks, because doing so often requires a lengthy wait and presentation of identification. I've omitted credit cards as an economic means of making transactions, because most credit cards recently have imposed hefty commissions - up to 5% - that will appear on your credit card statement as a separate charge. These commissions can add up, believe me.
The PTT (Post Office) is another great option for money matters, with competitive rates of exchange, and offices or satellite booths that can often save you from the embarrassment of an empty wallet. In a pinch, it is often possible to pay for meals and such in dollars, so that the cashier will calculate what you owe based on the day's prevailing rate of exchange.
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Is it Safe to Drive?
The most life-threatening activity in Turkey at the moment is driving. That's not to scare you all away from the most flexible means of transport for exploration and independence. That's just to say that 1) Turkey is pretty darned safe, and 2) Turks are notoriously ignorant behind the wheel (aren't we all?). Drivers are prone to precariously tight overtakings in the oncoming lane, as well as turns from any possible lane. The bottom line though is yes, it's safe to drive, with caveats. My best advice is to stay alert, and avoid driving at night, because it is not unheard of for the locals to switch off headlights in order to save the bulbs and because roads can go from freshly paved to roadblock in no time flat.
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Do I Need a Visa?
An entry visa is required of all US, Canadian, UK and Australian citizens, and is most easily acquired at the port of entry. There is no reason to address the visa issue prior to departure, as the Turkish authorities have set up a Visa window near the customs and immigration line, where exact change ($20 for US citizens, US$60 for Canadians, £10 for Brits and US$20 for Aussies) will buy you a stamp on your passport on the spot.
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Getting There by Air
Turkish Airlines (or THY, for Türk Hava Yollari; in the US www.flyturkish.com) in partnership with American Airlines, and Delta are currently the only airlines flying direct into Turkey from the US. THY flies direct to Istanbul from JFK and Chicago; American Airlines provides connections from all of the US cities it services. So, if you book on American, you'll be flying on a Turkish Airlines plane for the New York-to-Istanbul leg of the journey, only your ticket will be issued by American.
Delta has service direct from JFK only. There is no direct service into Turkey from Canada. Most major foreign carries provide service from the US to Istanbul as well, (i.e. Air France, Alitalia, British Airways, Luftansa, Sabina, KLM et.al), but while you'll have to change planes in their home city. You may expect lower fares for your trouble.
In addition to booking with these major airlines, I recommend dealing with one of the many reputable airline consolidators ("bucket shops", some of whom are also tour operators) that have contracts with the airlines to sell seats at a discounted price. I've used several, and have had excellent experiences:
Picasso Travel, www.picassotravel.com, 800-742-2776
Club America, 212-972-2865
Tursan Travel, www.tursantravel.com, 800-875-0075
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Food And Drink Related Questions
What's the food like?
Turkish food is touted as one of the preeminent cuisines of the world. This is undoubtedly a result of demanding sultans, but also of a kitchen that had access to flavors and techniques that extended to the four corners of a quite ethnically diverse empire. In short, Turkish food is much, much more than the d&oumner kebap and includes hundreds of eggplant recipes, peppers stuffed with pine nut and current pilaf, Circassian chicken, and spicy recipes originating from the Southeast, the Middle East and North Africa.
A typical Turkish meal begins with a selection of mezes, or appetizers. These often become a meal in themselves, accompanied by the national anais-flavored drink of raki, that when taken together, form a recipe for friendship, laughter and song. The menu of mezes often includes several types of eggplant (patlican), ezme, a fiery hot salad of red peppers, sigara böregi,fried cheese "cigars," and stuffed vegetables - anything from peppers, tomatoes, or vine leaves.
The main dish is dominated by the kebap (although fish prevails along the coast), a catch-all word for anything roasted, from the popular lamb "shish," to the Adana kebap, a spicy narrow sausage made of ground lamb. Lahmacun (lah-ma-jewn) is the Turkish answer to pizza, topped with ground lamb, tomato and onions, while the pide (pee-day) is a more conventional, albeit oval, version of the familiar beast. Another favorite fast-food is the gözleme, a freshly made cheese or potato (or whatever) crepe that is the providence of expert rolling pin-wielding village matrons, and available on demand at any roadside lean-to. Ayran, a refreshing drink made by combining yogurt and water, is a perfect non-alcoholic accompaniment to any meal, although beware: rather than sweet, it is salted, perfectly suited (although unexpected) to the long hot days of summer. Breakfast is generally ample, and often copious, especially at all-inclusive seaside resorts.
A basic breakfast will include tea or coffee (more on that later), tomatoes, cheese, olives, cucumbers, freshly made yogurt, honey, jams, and the fluffiest freshest most wonderful bread. If you're lucky (or just wandering around the street), keep an eye out for simit, the Turkish version of the sesame bagel.
While the better hotels appreciate the need for a decent morning jolt of coffee, other, less enlightened establishments will provide you with hot water, sugar and Nescafé. They actually think we enjoy a fresh cup of Nescafe, and although admittedly the habit did grow on me (in the absence of a reasonable alternative), I was still mortified when a friend came to the US and ordered it at Starbucks.
Tea, called çay (chai) in Turkish, is not so much a national drink as it is a ritual. Boil the water incorrectly and you're in for trouble. Let the tea steep without prior rinsing and you've committed an unforgivable transgression. What's amazing is that so many tea drinkers manage to maintain white teeth, and as you'll see, some don't. Tea is served extremely hot and strong in tiny tulip-shaped glasses, accompanied by exactly two sugar cubes. The size of the glass ensures that the tea gets consumed while hot, and before you slurp your final sip, a new glass will arrive. If you find the tea a bit strong, especially on an empty stomach, request that it be "açik" or "opened," so that the ratio of water to steeped tea is increased. The act of tea-drinking is often an introduction into more important matters, but just as often, the tea drinking IS the important matter, replacing the need for speaking as if empty tulip glasses created an unspoken pact. Embrace the ritual, and don't forget to brush.
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Can we drink the water?
It depends on where you are, but to avoid any unpleasant and/or debilitating intestinal problems, I suggest that you drink only bottled water.
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